You can get all the parts by yourself, and the PCBs are open source, so feel free to get everything you need to put together your stepper motor controller!
Kits containing all the necessary parts are available for pre-sale, and are expected to ship in a few months. It will cost you a little more than getting all the parts yourself, but it will save you some time. If you’re interested, please let me know.
Here is the list of parts needed to assemble a controller :
| Item description | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Main DirStepBoard PCB | 1 |
| WT32-ETH01 board without soldered pin headers | 1 |
| Rapspberry pi pico without soldered pin headers | 1 |
| EEPROM AT24 through hole chip (dip8) | 1 |
| Power supply terminal block : generic 4 pins 3.5mm push-in, right angle | 1 |
| Fuse holder : 0PTF0078P or equivalent | 1 |
| 1 Amp generic fuse | 1 |
| Schottky diode : 1N5819-G or equivalent | 1 |
| Capacitors 470 µF 10x12.5mm | 3 |
| 5V to 3V3 dc converter : TBA 1-0510 | 1 |
| Generic RGB led 5mm (4 pins common cathode) | 1 |
| Generic 6x6mm tactile switch | 2 |
| Generic 470Ω through hole resistor | 2 |
| Generic 1x4 male pin header | 1 |
| Generic DSUB15 female soldered connector | 1 |
| Generic DSUB HD15 female soldered connector | 1 |
| Generic 2x5 female pin header | 1 |
| Generic 1x3 female pin header | 1 |
| OpenCollector Mezzanine board assembled | 1 |
| Generic 2x6 female pin header | 1 |
| Generic 1x4 female pin header | 1 |
| StepDir TTL Mezzanine assembled | 1 |
You will need a soldering iron as well as some solder in order to assemble the board.
You’ll also need a micro usb cable in order to program the pico, and a USB to UART-TTL converter, and some jumper wires, to program the esp32. You can find plenty anywhere.
In order to have the board functioning properly, you also need two mezzanine boards, make sure you check out their dedicated page :
The assembly is prettty straightforward. I would suggest assembling the parts from the thinnest to the thickest :
Start with the push button, the resistors, the EEPROM chip and the Schottky diode. Note that the push buttons are the only SMD parts, but they are quite big, you should not have to much trouble soldering them.
Then solder the two microcontroller boards. Pin headers are optional for the pico, but I would suggest you still use them, otherwise the micro usb port of the pico will be hard to reach.
You can now solder the pin headers as well as the 5V-3v3 converter.
Then the capacitors and fuse holders. Be extra careful to put the capacitors in the correct orientation!
Finish up with the connectors and the LED. Do not put the LED all the way through if you want to use a case, you’ll need to bend the pins later.
You got yourself a fully assembled board! Do not worry that some pads are not used, they are mainly there for debugging purposes.